Cimarron

The name alone conjures up images of the old west doesn't it?  Well, it's as close to the authentic part of the old west there is in that part of New Mexico.  I'm a bit surprised it isn't a bit more developed with a  large NRA facility and the Philmont Scout ranch in close proximity.

We had poked our way into "town" last fall, curious about the St. James Hotel.  Another grand old timer in our never ending quest to seek them out.  We routed this trip just to be able to catch it.  Plain enough on the outside; it is after all from days when practicality outweighed pizazz.

A lot of these old hotels, here in the West, seem to have a sense of  Victorian elegance that is contradictory to their location.  The guests must be comfortable!

The Saint James is different.  You know it's wild west! Maybe it had to do with the number of stuffed animals around the place.

It wasn't anticipated, but we were not surprise to find a film crew wrapping up their day.  I think half the town was waiting to get into the saloon.  Or maybe it was just a big film crew.  As is rumored with many of these old hotels, the Saint James is said to be haunted and the SciFi channel was shooting an episode of an up coming series called Spirit Hunters to be aired around the first of June.

The tin ceilings remained throughout the public areas complete with bullet holes from gun fights.  This too is not unusual to find.  It does lend to the aura.  Especially since their guest registers include everyone from Jesse James to Annie Oakley.

We were sipping a whiskey, you don't call it a cocktail in a place like this,  when a tall, lanky man in complete western garb came in and started greeting everyone in the saloon.  Hub leaned over and informed me he was being interviewed on camera when he was checking in.  It turns out he was the manager.  And a most gracious one. Even when I complained there was no hair dryer in the room.  Actually I told every employee I met I needed a hair dryer and every one told me they would round one up.   More on this in a bit.

Lingering over dinner, we were pretty much the last people in the dining room when the manager, Steve, pulled up a chair and joined us.  He told us about himself and the enterprise that owns the hotel.  Managing it is his second job,  His day job is managing the local operation, a good sized one, of an Oklahoma cattleman.  He could be retired, but why?  He loves what he does on both counts.

What they do right is capitalize on the legends, even to labeling which rooms the celebrated guests occupied.  That's in the main building.  There is an annex, where we were due to occupancy restraints because of the film crew.  It wasn't so nice and this is where having hospitality professionals would be a tremendous boon.  Our room was dark and dingy, the bath linens old and thin and no hair dryer!

It became a running joke but never resolved.  I mentioned it the next morning as we were leaving, my head still damp from inadequate towelling.  There is only so much you can do with one towel after it has already dried a body!

The morning clerk said told me how sorry she was, but they only had two hair dryers and, of course, the film crew had them.

We might have gone back.  The film crew probably not.  It will be a long time before we do.  Come on, folks.  No one travels with a hair dryer anymore.  Hotels have them.  Especially those in out of the way corners that are trying to grow their businesses!

It wasn't a total bust though.  The town's deer were waiting for us in a field across from the hotel as we pulled out of town, an elk herd was just down the highway and of course the ever present antelope.  You know how I am about "critters" no matter how common or how often I see them.  They soothe my soul.

We Missed the Bears!

Climbing from terra firma to heights unknown is not my favorite activity for I am not known to have good balance.  I've been getting better though with all the physical therapy I do.  I was rarin' to go at Bandelier National Monument so we could photograph the ancient petroglyphs.

We had just started down the Main Loop Trial when there was a ruckus in the trees.  Hub decided we ought to go back to the car and get the binoculars.  Of course I'm always the bell hop.  There I was trying to get organized with my own camera, my flip video and the binoculars.  I started to laugh.  How the heck was I going to be  able to climb anything!

As we started off again we hear some rangers talking about seeing the bears just down the trail a bit.  The bears?  How casual.  Oh, well...

Off we went in the opposite direction.  I was clanking and rattling like Marley' s Ghost.  Perhaps it would take the place of bear bells.  Besides, people were beginning to arrive and no doubt would keep the bears at bay.

The top photo  is where we were climbing to and whatour starting point looked like from that vantage. Not so bad,  While narrow, the path was in good condition and I got none of the queasies I had anticipated.

When you look at what's left of these structures you realize what tiny people inhabited them.  If you look closely at the picture below left you can see the petroglyph. Petroglyps are scratched into the rocks.  Pigtographs are pained on with pigments.Click on it to enlarge it if you'd like. The small holes are where the log roof supports used to be.  The ladder leads to a small cave they used for food storage or cooking.  It makes me sad to know the Park Service has to keep charring them to cover graffiti. It's so much a part of our culture you can't even escape it in our national parks.

Hub, at one of these locations, chided me.  "You can climb that ladder!"  Right.  I could have if I wasn't being his bearer!

We walked the ridge line as far as it took us bantering with another couple about our age. " I read," said he, "they had health issues with arthritis and their teeth."  We all laughed, being able to relate to arthritis.  I was surprised about their teeth though.  They certainly ate a more healthy diet than we do!


After a couple of hours we clambered back down.  A family coming toward us said there were deer on the trial a bit further down.  Boy, were they!

It's not that there were so many of them, but how tame they were.  Maybe a half dozen or so.  Licking the lichen off the rocks. It reminded me of the time in Yellowstone when a Bison couldn't get enough of our front bumper.

We literally could have reached out and petted them.  Even the excited pitch of little kids didn't bother them.  I know, they were only deer, but I love seeing them in their own habitat - and that close!

A volunteer park ranger came bopping down the path in a good, cheery mood.  He stopped to chat a bit and told us the deer are always like that.  And the bears?
A mother and her two cubs.  Nothing to mess with. But she seems unfazed by humans.  He found himself between them once and discretion being the better part of valor, got out of the way fast. As a ranger he knows about discretion. She's been there three years now and as long as she remains people neutral they leave her alone.  They might  do a better job of warning visitors however!  One, when she's around.  And two, if careful she's not likely to do harm.  I think I'd still keep my distance!

Back to the car for the next leg of our journey.  Joseph had told us Bandelier was for city folk.  Maybe he's right.  I think I could have handled hiking and climbing everything I saw.  No guarantees in the back country however! As Hub constantly reminds me, I'm old.  Everything is wearing out!  How true, how true.

The Not So Curious Tourist

We pounded across I-40 in a continuation of the wind storm from the day before.  Hub turned on the radio for news as we approached Albuquerque and we heard something about being careful of the walkers and that the police would be out in force.  It was Good Friday so we figured it had something to do with Easter.
As we turned north on the Turquoise Trail we found the people.  Large groups, singles, kids.  Some were carrying full size crosses on their shoulders.  We looked at each other and shrugged.  There were signs for  the Santuario Walk but we hadn't a clue as to what it was.  It went on for miles.

We got ahead of the walkers at Madrid, a small, ram shackled mining town that has been invigorated by a group of artisans reminiscent of the hippies of the 60's.  Our age was telling.  I was another 'been there, done that' moment.

On to Santa Fe and our favorite stopping place, the Inn at the Alameda.  Not only is it comfortable, but they have one of the best breakfasts in town and a wine and cheese hour where the guests often get to know one another.  It has that kind of ambiance.

We had time to walk Canyon Road.  Really do the galleries even though there are fewer and fewer that carry the art we collect. As we were walking I realized much of Santa Fe looks a lot like Madrid only bigger!

 One place in particular caught my attention. There was a  small crystal ball hanging above the door.  I was very warm and thirsty at this point and when the owner offered me some water I gladly accepted and listened to her story. It was a symbol of Feng Shui.  It seems that before they opened the had a Feng Shui Master come in to instruct them as to how to arrange everything in the gallery to have positive qi. She was surprised I knew what she was talking about; we ended up having a great visit.

One thing about traveling in the off season, people do have more time to visit.  Being Easter and spring break things were more hectic than usual, but it was still relatively cool.We chatted here and there about everything from Kachinas to the most exquisite baskets from the women who live deep in the rain forests in Panama.  395 wraps per inch look almost like a painting.  Breathtaking.

The next morning we were no sooner on the highway when we came upon the walkers once again.  All the way to El Santuario de Chimayo!  On the High Road to Taos! Aha!  I had to get home to scope it out.  It's known to be the Lourdes of America where people make a pilgrimage at Easter hoping to be cured of their ills.  Had I know that I'd have encouraged Hub to stop!  The only thing we knew about Chimayo  was their wonderful chilies!

Actually, I had stopped there last fall in search of an Hispanic cemetery.  I had been fascinated by some we had passed and I wanted to take some pictures, but I had missed those easily accessed.  I had better luck this year!

I think how somber ours tend to be.  On occasion you'll see a grave decorated, but not often.  Many have restrictions on the use of flowers, real and artificial except on special occasions.  They are a place of mourning. Not so the Hispanics!  Theirs are a celebration of the life of the departed.  Bright, colorful, chaotic and might I say almost cheerful?

The walkers, of course, left us at Santuario.  The grounds were packed.  The police presence plentiful.   It was an amazing sight.

We were on our way to Bandelier  National Monument.   Hub wanted to climb to the cliff dwellings to photograph the petroglyphs.

There were a few surprises there too.  Plus an interesting side note.  The blown glass objects our new Hopi friend is trying to find a niche for are based on the shapes of those petroglyphs. Primitive depictions of life long past. With some experimentation he is learning how to infuse the essence of the figure's spirit deep within the glass. Curious.  And interesting.

Next I'll move on to ghosts, cowboys and critters.   Lots of critters!

Movin' On Down The Road

From Wickenberg we headed on down the road to Prescott where we tried another old hotel, the Hassayampa.  Sometimes, we're finding, the people who buy and refurbish these wonderful old places should also budget for some hospitality experts to get them on the right foot.  Enough said?

The next morning we were in Sedona way too early to visit our friends at Garlands so we headed on to Flagstaff to see the show at the Museum of Northern Arizona. Afterwards, while browsing in the gift shop we bumped into Jesse Monogye, one of the premier Navajo/Hopi jewelers.

Years ago, when we first began serious collecting we met Jesse at his soon-to-be mother-in-law's gallery in Scottsdale during a gathering of Indian artists for a book signing and show.  It was one of those wonderful events you never forget especially when you're among the favored guests.  We had flown in from Los Angeles, they were friends.

Hub bought me some of what was then an up and comers work.  In return I asked Jesse if he'd make Hub a pair of cuff links using his signature bear motif.  He did.  Hub was his first cuff link client and poor Jesse nearly went blind.  We've seen him at shows over the years but never really had a chance to visit so this was special. When we parted he put his hand on my shoulder and said, "This has been great.  I think it was meant to be."  Indeed.

Onward through Hopi land to the Tsakurshovi trading post.  Walking in, the owner Joseph Day, said, "I know you!"  I answered, "Yes, you do!"  And we were off.  We poked and talked and poked some more.  When he found Hub had a new camera he wanted to try out, he pulled out his Indian country maps and the two men spent the next hour hunkered over a counter  highlighting places Joseph knew well and we need to find.  I spent the time talking with one of his helpers who is trying to bring glass art to the Hopi.  He got hooked after a visit to the Steuben plant in Corning New York and has been pursuing it ever since.

I must tell you, these people are all so interesting and sharing and friendly.   They've added a personal touch to our collecting that makes it so much more than merely buying objects with which to adorn a wall or shelf ~ or me! It's no wonder we keep repeating our steps.

We meandered through a sand storm to Gallup and gave it up for the night.  The winds were horrible the whole trip but I've no complaint considering what people in the Southeast and Midwest are suffering through!

Since I seem to have come home with a cold and have had better days, I'll save Santa Fe and Cimarron for tomorrow.  I'm really not very good at these travelogues.  Just like Facebook.  Who other than us cares?  It's just a change of pace until I get geared up again.

Vacation Hindsight - A Bridge too Far!

We've headed for the Southwest for vacation for years now.  Mostly because we collect a lot of the art produced there and have made many friends.  With the economy the way it is our collecting has slowed to a snails pace, if at all, but the friends remain and the visits are just as rewarding if not more so.

We have the time now, too, to allow for following whims.  The first two days are pretty routine.  Pocatello the first night.  Las Vegas the second, enough time for a really great dinner and the obligatory loss of our slot machine budget which usually takes about 32 seconds.  Nothing changed there!

For years, since 9/11, traffic to and from Vegas heading south has been encouraged to take an alternate route rather than crossing Hoover Dam. If you chose to anyway, your car would be perfunctorily searched.  Not you, just your car.  The worry being that someone would try to blow up the dam.  How, I'm not sure because to do the damage anticipated one would have to get into its bowels and that might tend to be a tad difficult.

So they built a new kazillion dollar bridge that was finally opened last fall.  You can walk out on it and look down on the dam, which we did.

You had to go through the security check point before parking so technically your car could have been searched.  Ours was not.  Neither were we nor anyone else.  Nothing.  Nada.

The bridge walkway was packed with tourists of every stripe.   English was the unusual language to hear.  With every currency known to man stronger than ours, people from abroad are flocking here for holiday. Yet not one bit of serious security.  Of course I'm no engineer, but I could just imagine an RPG slamming into the base of that dam coming from the new bridge where millions of viewers congregate. Not likely? Probably done more easily than getting into the dam to where you could be effective. It just amazes me that so much money was expended on the new bridge yet those who use it have absolutely free access.  Those very same people cannot get on a plane without what amounts to a strip search.  I am not suggesting, however, that such measures be instituted!

Okay.  We've been there, done that.  Since London Bridge was in the general vicinity we decided to visit it too.  We were curious as to how well Lake Havasu City was utilizing the old bridge as a tourist attraction.

Well, it was there.  It could have been any bridge from anywhere.  The fake British storefronts stood mostly unoccupied.  If it weren't for the hype, which of course is what it's all about, it could have been any bridge anywhere.

I'm sure it's packed during the tourist season, regardless of the amenities, but somehow it just didn't belong. 

It lacked London!  Even modern day London has an aura about it that Lake Havasu does not.  It's just a town on a lake depending on the tourist dollar for it's existence.
It seemed rather sad to me.  I love old historical sites.  There is usually a sense of history that is palpable.  Not here.  So that stop has been checked off our 'really ought to see it while we're so close' list.  It was, after all, an absolutely gorgeous day!

Next stop was Wickenberg's Desert Caballeros Museum for the Cowgirl Up western art show.
It was superb.  One of the best shows we've seen in a very long time and all women artists.  But of course!  What else would you expect?

Tomorrow, if you can stick with this, it's on to Indian country.  I really didn't want to get into Karzai being encouraged by the Pakistanis to side with them and China against us!  Even out of place, the London Bridge sits better with me!